The Traditional Markets of Catania

There are places that, at certain times of day, reveal the true spirit of the Sicilian people and, by awakening the senses, become emblematic of the genius loci: the traditional markets of Catania
The Piscaria and the Fera o' Luni are Catania's historic markets, brought to life by a show of "street theatre" put on by sellers and shoppers alike, where sights, scents, local produce and the fruits of the sea and the land take centre stage.
Whether you want to buy anything or not hardly matters: the show alone is worth the visit. Asking about the goods on the stalls, and even trying to haggle with the sellers, is a truly unforgettable experience that will take you back centuries, to the days of Arab Sicily.

In recent years, moreover, new markets have sprung up, not only run by antique dealers and collectors, but also pop-up shops where makers, artists, designers and modern craftspeople display their handmade creations.
These modern markets also reveal other distinctive traits of the people of Catania that have earned the city the nickname "Milan of the South": creativity, dynamism, a flair for business and an ability to reinvent themselves professionally.
Ready to be guided? This guide by Palazzo Speciale takes you step by step on a journey through crafts, rarities and flavours.
 
A Piscaria

The fish market lies just a few metres from Palazzo Speciale, between Piazza Alonso and Piazza Pardo, spreading into the surrounding streets and along the Arches of the Marina, right behind Piazza Duomo, which you can reach either through Porta Uzeda or by walking past the Amenano Fountain.
It is here, at A Piscaria, that since the 19th century people have bought the freshest fish in the city, so fresh that its eyes are still bright and its gills bright red.
As well as fish, you can buy everything you need to prepare and season tasty dishes: olives, peppers, onions, aubergines, parsley, garlic, chilli peppers and Sicilian lemons.
Dive into the crowd strolling past the stalls in search of their favourite catch at the best price. Follow their lead and start browsing the goods on display yourself.

Breathe in the air, heavy with the scent of the sea and salt, and find yourself gazing with a mix of pity and admiration at those true monuments to Nature: the severed heads of swordfish proudly displayed on the counters, stained with ruby-red blood and constantly rinsed down by the fishmongers with jets of water.
As you can see, every stall overflows with wooden crates full of fish, still-live mussels and octopuses looking for a way out: a riot of scales and colours.
On counters of marble or old wood worn smooth by use, weather-beaten old sea dogs, burnt by the sun and hardened by the wind, rearrange the display as the goods are sold, haggle, and fillet fish for customers with a surgical precision that would seem impossible for hands so hardened by toil and sanctified by work.

Now listen carefully to their chants: the fishmongers have spotted you, and their hoarse voices are trying to draw your attention to their goods and tempt you to buy.
Stop and talk to them, and ask about the typical fish of the Ionian coast: octopus, red mullet, gurnard, grouper, mackerel, prawns and crabs, spiny lobsters, mantis shrimps, lobsters, bonito, slipper lobsters, cuttlefish and squid, tuna, sea bass, gilthead bream, anchovies, sardines, clams, oysters, telline and mussels.
Ask what the day's specials are, because what is on sale depends on the day's catch and therefore on the season.

From these encounters you will certainly take away not only a wonderful memory but also plenty of traditional recipes to try out once you are back home.
The fishermen hand these recipes down from generation to generation and know exactly how each product should be cooked to bring out the best in every dish while preserving its nutritional value.

Has wandering among the fish stalls and admiring all the bounty of the sea given you an appetite, and do you want to taste one of the recipes the fishmongers recommended right away?
You are ready to enjoy a delicious lunch at the MM! trattoria, right in Piazza Pardo, which we recommended in our food and wine guide.
Remember: A Piscaria is open Monday to Saturday, from 4:00 am to 3:30 pm.
 
Fera 'o Luni

Countless products on sale at bargain prices, advertised by the sellers with improvised songs.
Whatever you want to buy, you will find it here: from local produce and zero-mile fruit and vegetables to every kind of food, from clothing to household goods, and much more.
Ready to strike a deal by haggling with the seller who, with a stream of rhymes and calls in Catania dialect full of innuendo and double meanings, is now showing you the great bargains reserved just for you?
We are not in an Arab souk, even though the market keeps all the charm of a bazaar, but at the neighbourhood market in Piazza Carlo Alberto in Catania.

Its name, Fera o' Luni , which translates as "Monday fair", dates back to the time when this historic Catania market was taking shape and opened only on the first day of the week.
We bet that, besides stocking up on everything you need to cook a delicious meal, while wandering among the stalls you found that dress or pair of shoes you had wanted for ages, and bought them at the market at a big discount?
Now that you have finished wandering among the stalls, you can also visit the Basilica of the Madonna del Carmine and, if you are lucky enough to be in the city on one of the few days it is open to the public, the Church of San Gaetano alle Grotte, where Christians gathered at the time of the Roman persecutions.
Remember: the Fera o' Luni is open Monday to Friday from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm, and on Saturdays from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm.
 
Flea Market

If collecting and antiques are among your interests, you can browse the stalls of the Catania Flea Market (Mercatino delle Pulci).
It takes place every Sunday from 8:00 am at the port, just behind the Arches of the Marina and a few steps from Palazzo Speciale.
There are lots of exhibitors and a wide range of vinyl records, books and comics, mid-century design and antique furniture.
On the eight grain silos that stand in the port of Catania, you can also admire the largest mural in the world, created by the Portuguese artist Vhils and commissioned by the Fondazione Terzo Pilastro.
Remember: the Flea Market is held at the Port of Catania on Sundays, from 8:00 am to 2:00 pm.
 
Pop-up market

Have you ever heard of temporary shops? In Catania, with the aim of revitalising little-known or forgotten urban spaces, the pop-up market is held: both a temporary market and an event with music and performances.
At the pop-up market, the stalls celebrate handmade goods, collecting, creative recycling, and the talent of up-and-coming Sicilian artists and makers.
Remember: the pop-up market moves around and only runs for a limited time; to find out in which streets of Catania the next event will be held, visit their website: www.popupmarketsicily.com
 
Le Pulci in Città

A market that the organisers like to call a "One Stop Market", enlivened by music and art exhibitions, where you can buy creations by local craftspeople as well as vintage items and clothes.
Remember: to find out whether the Pulci in Città stalls are nearby, check their Facebook page.